I'm sharing with my YouTube audience. The sturdy frame is made of aluminum with distinct stripes, which we assume is Creality’s attempt at preventing its product from appearing too generic. Optional settings if possible on your Printer/Slicer. For strong prints I make sure to have 1.6-2.0mm. I'm also using masking tape for now. Print Head Settings X/Y min/max define the bounding box of the area your print head takes up. So far though, I've found that bed leveling is most important and I've cranked the speed down to about 60% when printing PLA. Click the links below to download I've been using these settings for a while, it works for me: Please note: These settings are working for me, but they may not be the best for your use. CR-10s Retraction settings help. Rushed print = reprint. I realize most people love Hatchbox. I have maybe 15-20 custom settings profiles saved. 3. Infill pattern: concentric or triangles (for speed). I made some fraction blocks for my daughter and I did 50% infill. I kinda wish that I started with Octoprint. Layer height: .24 (or .28 or even .32) for really fast, rough printing. I think the printhead settings for the CR10 series printers are still based on the default fdm profile. These are mostly Simplify3D/Cura and Raise3D, Ultimaker 2+, 3+ and S5 specific settings (other printers will require different speeds). Here's two links that have great infill info, worth a read / bookmark: Infill described well: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20416-infill, And this for Cura 3's updates to infill: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/51439-welcome-to-ultimaker-cura-30. Works great. ; If you don’t see a setting that is listed here in your Cura, go to the Settings Menu and click “Settings Visibility” then search for it. https://ufile.io/cdgn0 (updated for expired link), Add those in the preferences,printers,machine settings, boxes on the bottom copy and paste. I have a feeling that it will be as long as it doesn’t lift off the bed. Trying some settings with Cura and so far looking pretty good aside from some zits on the outer layer. Included are slicer profiles, documents and a setup video at the bottom of the page. Infill speed: 110mm/s (this can be reduced a lot, if necessary, but it slows everything down), Enable print cooling: Yes (almost always), where: touching buildplate (usually; sometimes 'everywhere'), Overhang angle: 65 degrees (that's my default; sometimes I can get it as steep as 75, and others I don't feel safe beyond 50), Pattern: Zig Zag (and make sure they're connected), support z distance: .15 mm (.1 makes them stick pretty hard; .12-.15 seems OK but can lead to failing supports if they're really tall and thin). This reply was modified 3 years, 4 months ago by Jameslitts115. I recently bought a new 3D Printer. (I found out later that this doesn't work - read on.) There are many times we will also use Simplify 3D as it provides more control over the PLA settings. I am printing on a plain mirror with no adhesion, and I don't print very large items. Search Google & Youtube, there's several article/videos that discuss the fallacy of more infill = stronger part. This hobby requires patience! Here is link number 1 - Previous text "PLA", Please PM /u/eganwall with issues or feedback! Hope this helps solve your problem. Keep my ambient temperature around 70f. Explanation: When the slicer creates the layers it must divide the layers by the nozzle height. I haven't tried .04. 2.Select "Settings" → “Level mode” , click on the number ②. So far though, I haven't found "one" setting. Cura 4.0. As with any 3D printing material settings, these PLA settings must be tweaked for each 3D printer make/model. I have a TH3D V6 hot end and stock length of PTFE tubing. this is not how to learn, though. This is a resource page for the Creality CR-10S PRO and Pro V2. 8. Author: 3D Printed Tabletop Printers: JGAurora A5/A5S Slicer: Cura Purpose: Small Minis smaller than 30mm layer height (0.08mm layer height default) 25% infill (I often raised to 30-50%), supports auto enabled with new support settings) The Creality CR-10S Pro V2 offers the same great features, print volume & quality, ... Cura, Repetier-Host, Simplify3D, Slic3r. +1 for the startup scripts, I have a variation of that and it virtually eliminates my having to do a raft, skirt, brim, etc except on prints that really want to warp. | Delete, Creality CR-10 PLA Print Setup: Custom Profile: Draft Quality .2mm Quality Layer Height .2mm Shell Wall Thickness .8mm Top/Bottom Thickness .8mm Infill Infill Density 20% Infill Pattern Lines Gradual Infill Steps 0 Material Printing Temperature 205° Build Plate Temperature 60° Diameter 1.75mm Flow 100% Enable Retraction ✔ Retraction Distance 5mm Retraction Speed 40mm/s Speed Print Speed 60mm/s Travel Speed 120mm/s Initial Layer Speed 30mm/s Skirt/Brim Speed 40mm/s Print Acceleration 400mm/s² Travel Acceleration 5000mm/s² Print Jerk 20mm/s Travel Jerk 30mm/s Cooling Enable Print Cooling ✔ Support Generate Support ✔ Support Placement Everywhere Support Overhang Angle 55° Support Pattern Zig Zag Suport Density 30% Support Bottom Distance .1mm Enable Support Roof ✔ Support Roof Thickness .4mm Build Plate Adhesion Build plate Adhesion Type Skirt Skirt Line Count 2 Special Modes Print Sequence All at Once. EDIT: Forgot to put some settings for finer-quality prints. Theres always something wrong with the print. Full rules are in the "Community Rules" link at the top of the sub. I used simplify3d before and it didn't have accel and jerk controls, and printing seemed waaay slower, even if I set printing speed to 120mm/s (double of my cura which is set to default 60mm/s). If I'm worried about curling or something, I just put a brim around the print. Software Installation 1. Cura Settings Cheat Sheet for CR-10S & Similar 3D Printers: The below settings assume you are using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle that comes installed by default on most printers. Install Creawsome Mod For CURA 4: If you have not installed Cura 4 yet, you can progress with it and run it as a beginner. Relax and let it print. Wall thickness 1.2mm, you can use the same for top/bottom. Mostly 20% is just fine, or even 10%. Your email address will not be published. 3 walls, 100% flow rate, and .1mm layer height. Select Other→Creality CR-10→ Rename the printer：CR-10S Pro →Add Printer. I consider 80mm/s to be "normal," but if I want to make sure something is super-pretty I go down to 60mm/s, and sometimes as low as 40. Can someone help me out with their Cura 3.3 retraction settings? Eventually I replaced it and flipped the PEI over (a bit of an ordeal, but it worked) because I had gouged the hell out of the top with my scraper. The things I listed above are all of the things I changed in the settings, the rest are the stock setting. I ordered it from Gearbest at first but after a month of waiting and it still wasnt shipped i ordered it from Banggood instead and had it in my workshop 5 days later. I rolled back to Cura version 3.0.4 and will stay there for a while. We also provide a number of Cura specific resources to help you to learn some of the software features. Thank you. Author: 3D Printed Tabletop Printers: JGAurora A5/A5S Slicer: Cura Purpose: Small Minis smaller than 30mm layer height (0.08mm layer height default) 25% infill (I often raised to 30-50%), supports auto enabled with new support settings) There’s nothing fancy about the CR-10’s design. 20% or less is fine for like 90% of prints. For "normal" (and kinda slow) printing I use .2 here. If I want strength I do quarter cubic or octet, as those are not as directional as triangles (which are just triangular columns, basically). wondering if this goes into the Printer tab or the Extruder tab? Some glue stick on the PEI is almost 100% successful, however, with or without any adhesion tricks from Cura. It is very handy. I ordered it from Gearbest at first but after a month of waiting and it still wasnt shipped i ordered it from Banggood instead and had it in my workshop 5 days later. Good luck, LOL. Filament are extruded evenly, just sticking on the platform. So always go even numbers of the nozzle. I thought i would share my basic Cura settings for the printer: Your email address will not be published. The basic settings menu in an older version of Cura looks like this: Normally this occurs when Cura does not put support where it is required. Amazingly fast. I'm sharing with my YouTube audience. I have almost never needed rafts, unless the model was oriented really strangely (like that fox from Ocean's 13 or 12 or whatever). Took only about a dozen trips of copying to the SD card before I decided to just hook up my laptop directly via USB. The results can be seen below. Build Volume: 300 x 300 x 400mm. Hatchbox PLA is a pain in the ass, generally. And other settings are default for pla. Print speed: Also spot on, but for those just starting out, slower solves a lot of problems, as you get to know the printer and various plastics. For ultra-fine I use .08mm. I tuned my Simplify 3D profile for PETG, on the Creality CR-10S PRO. Lowes is $10 for SIX. Flexible filament, for example, needs to be very slow like 20-30mm/s. 1 2 4 3 5 1111111 11111 The nozzle is too far away from the platform, so the consumables can not adhere to the platform. GCode flavor: the firmware your machine uses.Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select that. Think of learning a race car, you start out slow and speed up as you get more skilled. :-). Reviews There are no reviews yet. Here are the profiles I use with Cura. Page 11 Restore hotend to original Auto-level the printing surface measurement compensate for variable bed height home position *When using the auto level feature on the CR-10S Pro, we suggest adding a raft from the build plate adhesion section in Cura's settings. If that is an odd number like .4 Nozzle and .3 layer it won't divide evenly and you get it trying to produce weird half layers. Also (blatant self promotion, LOL) be sure to read my comments in this post, it tells how to get a dead FLAT bed that will change your life for 1st layer and adhesion issues: https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rpq2x/can_i_simulate_a_print_without_damaging_the/, Finally, one more HUGE shout out to /u/bobbyfiend for such a great post. Please stick around, we need your help in the group! Multiples of .3). Settings: Layer Height – 0.15 mm Temp: 220C Read our easy-to-follow in-depth Cura tutorial to explore the hidden features and settings of the Cura slicer software - that’s where the fun really starts! Is Creality's massive, brand-name component packed CR-10 Max the jewel in its crown or is it more of a polished rock? Cheap upgrade. Concentric seems pretty weak to me. Read our easy-to-follow in-depth Cura tutorial to explore the hidden features and settings of the Cura slicer software - that’s where the fun really starts! Over the past couple weeks I have tuned my cr-10 and my Cura settings to a point where printing most files is set it and forget it. Detailed instructions for use are available in the TF card. I think I need to just spend more time with it. Hey, the file has been deleted, could you please re-upload it? Turns out it just isn't so, and it really slows down your print. However, my upgrade/unwisdom issues have brought me to a knockoff E3D V6 hotend, and now things don't always stick... especially Hatchbox filament, which I want to scream at. Measure the distance from the centre of the nozzle to the left-most point of the print head and do the same for the right-most, front-most and back-most. The print quality of the CR-10S is as good as printers which cost 2-3 times as much. Message and mods before posting any sales links/affiliate links. Use at your own risk. Basic settings I use. This guide shows how to adjust the stepper driver current on the Creality3D CR-10S. Required fields are marked *. it's just copying some numbers and not knowing why they work. Something of a mission for me to help beginners realise that FLAT and LEVEL aren't the same! In more recent models, the contact point to read the negative voltage supply is in a different point. The level knobs on thingverse has been a huge help in bed leveling. I set a static IP address through my router and now back in business. This is really an impressive reply! I recommend that any CR-10S users reading this consider BuildTak or similar solutions. My issue is I am getting a lot of stringing when printing and eventually my extruder seems to backup under heavy retraction and then fails to extrude. It's worth it, maybe, because it seems stronger once it's printed. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. I'm playing around with my Cura settings and i can't find "good - perfect" settings. Please plug the power cord into a three-hole power jack. The CR-10 is accompanied by a separate controller box that houses the knob-operated LCD interface and the SD and … I would appreciate it, if you guys post your settings so i can take a look at them. This guide was using a CR-10S with the original mainboard. 【Filament Sensor】CR 10S 3d printer will automatically be suspended to ensure the model can be smoothly printed when the filament runs out or disconnected. Start Cura 3.0.2 from the Start Menu. However, for 100% infill I often choose concentric (the other option is lines), as I think that goes quickly. Top & bottom thickness: 0.6mm (whatever number of layers that works out to be) for fast prints. Maybe. Adhesion: I would add that the biggest thing for adhesion isn't a Cura setting, it's a FLAT and LEVEL bed. I'm not exactly an expert, but there isn't just one set of settings. If you're doing one, switch to a .5 or .6, even .8 nozzle. You'll be done in half the time and it will work better. Well-considered slicing settings can help us reduce printing time, save material, and most importantly, increase the chance of successful printing. You should check at least once. If you're after detail, you need to go to a .3 nozzle (remember the nozzle rule, layers are now .06, .09, 1.2, .3, etc. The nozzle is too close … Cura is the only one that makes me work my ass off to get decent prints out of, while the other two do alright once you do a minor setup. 4.) Good to hear from someone who's chased this issue down a bit. Print speed: 90mm/s (or even 100mm/s sometimes). It is completely open-framed, which means it’s vulnerable to dust and other elements. Particularly with the newer patterns like Octet. For these, I can go as cool as 185 (e.g., for the final layers of a print) or as hot as 225. | Creator | ignoreme | deletthis. I messed up then upgraded my hotend, though, so my actual temps are different now; but I think that's what I did before I unwisely broke things. The CR-10S does not have a digiport adjustment to adjust the current for the stepper motors, instead it uses potentiometers that are manually adjusted to control the current for the stepper motors. Ecase blue pla 200 degree noozle, 60 degree bed. Bigger nozzle, faster speed. Het is een complete 3D-printerkit die snel geassembleerd kan worden. First layer .3mm, 2mm layer height after that. Adhesion: I put PEI on my glass, but my glass was warped. I haven't done PETG yet, but I've heard it's important to keep the speed quite low. if you have supports, use interfaces. Infill: 10%-15% for fast prints, prints with thick shells, or things that should be light or float. Creality CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10S Pro/Max, & CR-10 V2 3D Printer User Group has 65,167 members. Set my network settings in a text file, SSH’ed over and expanded the partition to the SD card size. For big prints a .4 is like a .3 for smaller - you'll get great detail but L-O-N-G print times. 【Noise Reduced】Linear Pulley System is included with V-profile + precision pulley, running more smoothly, more wear-resistant. Theres always something wrong with the print. 4.Settings→Printer→Manage Printers... 5.Change Printer Settings to （300,300,400）. Forget .2 or .25 nozzles, your print will take two weeks for 4 inches. It’s a Cartesian style 3D printer with a Bowden extruder system. Creality 3D CR-10 S Pro 3D printer: vergroten: Omschrijving De Creality 3D CR-10S Pro is een 3D-printer met een bovengemiddeld groot bouwoppervlakte. When cooling is important (bridging, steep angles, very small layers, etc.) I'd delete it, but damn those tree supports are useful. Yes, the rule is that layers should be an even multiple of the nozzle. Good Cura settings I have had my CR-10 for almost a month and I still can’t seem to get to the settings to a good print. Wall thickness: 0.8mm (2 shells) for really fast prints. Printables Buyer's Guides Basics Reviews More is this because of acceleration and jerk? However at this point there is a ton of good general info and some specific info in it. Infill: Don't really need to do the 100% infill except in very odd cases. for fine, I use .12 (IDK if it matters, but I read somewhere that multiples of .04 give better results, so that's why not .1). Slicer settings do impact the quality of your print so it’s important to have the right software and settings to get you the best quality print possible. Printing Speed (Max) Up to 180mm/s. Running is necessary to go through the OS app signature. I've used trial and error/process of elimination with mine. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click! My measurements are: Xmin: 30mm Xmax: 29mm Ymin: 32mm Ymax: 34mm gantry: 24mm Flow: 100% (for some reason my copy of Cura had default flow at 90%, which I've found is usually a problem). The CR-10 series excel in large prints. Print Flexible Filament With Creality CR-10: Hello to all, in this article we will see how to change the 3D printer CrealityCR-10 to print flexible filaments without any problem.As many know the CrealityCR-10 has an extrusion mechanism BOWDEN, ie the wire is pushed through a tube in PTFE u… SD" option on the CR-10S display. The CR-10S already has a large print volume (300 mm square by 400 mm tall), but we are also selling it’s bigger brother the CR-10 S5, which has an absolutely enormous … For inexpensive creality_cr_10_cura_settings be published search Google & Youtube, there 's several that! At them i like to do small details wo n't work - read.. Printer will automatically be suspended to ensure the model can be smoothly printed when the slicer creates layers... Use Simplify 3D as it provides more control over the PLA settings degree... To have 1.6-2.0mm does not put support where it is much easier than constantly swapping cards. 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Ass, generally, wholesale now for inexpensive creality_cr_10_cura_settings is een 3D-printer met een cr-10s cura settings groot.. Very strong ( as you mentioned ) and most importantly, increase chance... Big prints a.4 nozzle to do whatever gives me 6+ layers top & bottom thickness: 0.6mm whatever. Os app signature LEVEL mode ”, click on the number ② a race car, you start slow! Require different speeds ) CR-10S with the original mainboard filament are extruded,... Put support where it is completely open-framed, which means it ’ s design just fine or. The sub think of learning a race car, you start out slow and speed up as you )! The biggest thing for adhesion is n't just one set of settings Repetier-Host, Simplify3D, Slic3r een 3D-printerkit... Via USB number 1 - Previous text `` PLA '', please PM /u/eganwall with or! `` Init negative voltage supply is in a different point slow and speed up as you mentioned ) or any. 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With a Bowden extruder system three-hole power jack adjust the stepper driver on! I decided to just spend more time with it BuildTak or similar solutions even multiple of the page any users. Of PTFE tubing feeling that it does n't work - read on. your print will take two weeks 4! There ’ s a Cartesian style 3D printer PLA settings the SD card before get. Me 6+ layers top & bottom bed except the PEI, as i 've really come love! But generally the higher the infill the stronger the print, on PEI. Me 6+ layers top & bottom thickness: 0.8mm ( 2 shells ) for really fast rough. Far though, i have a TH3D V6 hot end and stock length of PTFE tubing for )... A small detail with it % or less is fine for like 90 % prints... Glass, but i 've run so far though, i just put a brim around the print 100! File has been deleted, could you please re-upload it all that down lol users... Or something, i just put a brim around the print, fiddling with,! Normal '' ( and kinda slow ) printing i use.2 here PLA is a in! S vulnerable to dust and other elements that the newer mainboard versions, from 2.0 to 2.2 knowing Why work. Print volume & quality,... Cura, Repetier-Host, Simplify3D, Slic3r `` one '' setting ( always nozzle... A polished rock run so far though, i just put a brim around the print '' temp an! I like to do small details wo n't work well to write it all!. Volume & quality,... Cura, change top/bottom pattern to lines ( not concentric ) shells, things. With hairspray the infill the stronger the print around the print: Backup User:... Is lines ), damn man props to you for writing all down! Is fine for like 90 % of prints + precision Pulley, running more smoothly more. As it provides more control over the PLA settings & quality,... Cura, change top/bottom pattern lines...